By Luke Good
With his hand on the fashion bible that is Vogue, Marc Jacobs has sworn he will not take over Dior after John Galliano’s dismissal for a series of drug-fueled, anti-semitic rants. In a recent interview with the magazine, Jacobs said, “There have been on-and-off conversations with Dior…Maybe someday in the future, maybe years from now, I may end up going someplace else, maybe Dior.” Jacobs is currently the creative director for French fashion house Louis Vuitton and head designer for labels Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs, and, as of now, that is where his loyalty lies.
Salary negotiations were rumored to be one snag, as well as the added workload Jacobs would take-on at Dior, historically an haute couture house that produces two couture collections a year, along with ready-to-wear. Jacobs, who designs ready to wear which is coveted and worn by celebrities, said that couture is not something he would like to focus his energy on, “It’s archaic – in my opinion. I mean, I am really interested in the craftsmanship behind couture. But I can explore all that in ready-to-wear.”
Galliano was removed as head designer at Dior after his arrest in February for anti-Semitic remarks in a Parisian bar aimed at a woman and her boyfriend, saying to the woman, “Dirty Jewish face, you should be dead” and to the man, “Asian bastard, I will kill you.” Video later surfaced of Galliano on an eerily similar tirade from October 2010, in which he claims, “I love Hitler” and tells a group of women heard but not seen in the video, “People like you would be dead today. Your mothers, your forefathers would be fucking gassed and fucking dead.”
Galliano was also dismissed from his namesake label as it is owned by the same company that owns Dior, luxury good conglomerate LMVH. After being put on trial, Galliano was found guilty last September of making “public insults based on origin, religious affiliation, race or ethnicity” and forced to pay fines of 6,000 Euros. During the trial, Galliano admitted suffering addictions to alcohol, barbiturates, and sleeping pills.
As head designer of Dior since 1996, Galliano reveled in the freedom the position granted him. His praised couture collections often looked to the past for inspiration, referencing every culture and era from Ancient Egypt to 20th century comic book heroines and American suburbia.
Speculation continues as to who will replace Galliano. Designers Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, Raf Simons, Riccardi Tisci, and Alber Elbez are all rumored to be under consideration at Dior. As interim designer, Bill Gaytten has the unenviable task of keeping clothes walking the runway until a designer is named; his Fall 2011 couture show was presented amidst the Galliano scandal and was received with empathy, rather than praise.