Milan Fashion Week came and went this past weekend, and Gucci, Fendi, and Prada were once again the “it” shows of the week. Many fashion editors, bloggers, and journalists overlook MFW, but this year was a little different—although Anna Wintour did leave a day early to hit Paris, prompting everyone else to follow suit.
First, Prada. The show’s set was so beautiful and mysterious, featuring dunes in lilac sand (yes, real sand), surrounded by a runway of golden-brown velvet.
This season, it was evident that Prada focused on precise tailoring and craftsmanship. From the first look to the last, it was hard not to notice the sharp lines. For example, the double-breasted coat had topstitching around the contours and the lining was cut perfectly.
That said, the collection was classic Prada with few surprises. There were knee-length skirts, knee-high socks with chunky shoes, A-line shirts—the whole look was very 70’s. The colors for the collection were dark without being particularly moody or grungy. Overall, the collection will likely do well in Milan, as it always does, simply because Prada can do no wrong.
Gucci was another hyped show. When Tom Ford helmed the brand, it radiated kink and sensuality. Now that Frida Giannini is in charge, no one is sure what to expect.
This season, Giannini went back to her roots with Asian prints and fur. Although fur is a classic statement for most European designers, these Gucci pieces were full of striking color and sparkle, which brought a whole new spin to the style.
The collection also included denim cropped trousers, silk jersey dresses, and maroon and forest green suede belted trenches with rows of brass buttons. Giannini resurrected her old style, which wasn’t necessarily a bad thing—after all, a good style will always be in style.
Lastly, Fendi. The legendary Karl Lagerfeld is always a wild card. He may have infused orchids into Fendi’s collection (floral is not groundbreaking for spring/summer collections), but the look was in no way soft or romantic. Indeed, the orchid is Fendi’s new signature, seen everywhere from handbags to models’ hair to Lagerfeld’s own necktie jewel.
Still, Fendi’s collection was a mixed bag. It offered short dresses with graphic designs and denim proportioned pants that made no sense yet made complete sense at the same time. Holding it all together was a Fendi staple: the “little Karl” bag chain that will sell out in 30 seconds once it hits Saks.